Sailing in northern Dalmatia
Divided into three sectors - north, centre and south - Dalmatia is nowadays one of the Mediterranean areas preferred by pleasure boaters, moreover for the reason that sails are there a fundamental economic resource. Pleasant climate, safe coasts, good supply of landing-places and variety of routes, attract thousands of cruise lovers.
A triple series of islands separates the Adriatic from the continental Dalmatian coast: the horizon, therefore, is almost never open. Distances between various landing-places are usually minimum, with few sections requiring just a few hours of navigation.
A labyrinth of landscapes
Northern Dalmatia, a triple rows of islands from Zadar to Šibenik, and later on in massive entities in front of Diocletian's Split, spreads in an authentic labyrinth of landscapes, dominated by green of the forests and the yellow of the Spanish broom. The horizon is never free, but always full of different microcosms: cliffs, islets, channels, larger and long islands, disposed almost as to extend the Croatian coast in a safe world of sea, peninsulas, coast and indented promontories. From the lunar embrace of Kornati islands to the charm of large islands in front of the superb Split, Dalmatia is a practical realisation of a desire of those who dream of an easy cruise by sail.
Principal routes
Mid-North Dalmatia is divided, speaking in pleasure sailing terms, in at least four distinguished routes. The one among Zadar, Sukošan and Dugi Otok comprising the largest islands of Ugljan, Pašman, Iž Veli and Sestrunj, besides tens of minor islets. The second one of Kornati islands, with the island of Žut (second barrier sailing off the coast), Kornat (third barrier) and the lunar Kornati (fourth and broken barrier before open sea).
The third route opens in a radial form in front of Šibenik and shows a compound mini archipelago (Žirje, Kakan, Kaprije, Zmajan, Zlarin, Tijat and Prvic) besides the open sea that, along difficult passages, opens as far as Šibenik and Skradin along the Krka river. The fourth route starts from Primošten to finish in Split, touching the large islands of Split archipelago. Ciovo, Šolta, Brac and Hvar. In spite of the interlacement of islands and cliffs, navigation, unless you get lost, is not difficult. Perils are rare and depths generally remarkable to the very coast. Signalisation is good, although it is recommended to start some passages during the night.
Between Zadar and Dugi Otok
Reconstructed after the last wars, Zadar preserves traces of its ancient splendour. The green of the forests and passages between islands situated from Dugi Otok and Ugljan give a noble and relaxing atmosphere to the zone. There are three marinas in Zadar: Borik, Vitrenjak - the local sailing club, and Zadar - the most comfortable and close to the historical nucleus. The cruise can start with the classic passage of Zrelac, a narrow funnel situated a mile from the Marina, which can be used by crafts with masts up to 15 meters in height, due to the bridge connecting the islands of Ugljan and Pašman.
The basin opening to the view will show what can be expected. In front of the long mass of Dugi Otok, on the right the beautiful island of Iž, on the left small islands leading to the entrance to Kornati islands. The landing- place of Iž Veli, a fishermen village on the island of Iž, gives some fifty berths to stay overnight, after a day spent among the islands in the north (Sestruni, Rivanj, Zverinac, Rava). Another possibility is to stay overnight in one of numerous bays equipped with buoys (that type of mooring is very frequent in northern Dalmatia), rented at low prices. The following stop will be the Nature Park of Telašcica, in the southern part of Dugi Otok, the long island, spreading for 24 miles in length and only two miles in breadth, and there is no need to explain the origin of this toponym. That is one of the best known places of the Croatian coast, hosting one of the five nature and national parks of this country. Through the passage Proversa Mala you enter the Kornati Archipelago, to head immediately for north-west. The deep bay of Telašcica, one of the most appreciated "internal seas" of Croatia spreads for more than 4 miles inside Dugi Otok, with numerous coves where it is possible to find peace even in high Summer.
Kornati island
The archipelago owns its name to the latest of the islands, the Kornat island, due to a legend stating the "the last day of creation, God, to crown his labour, created Kornati - the crowned - islands with his tears, stars and breath" as said George Bernard Shaw enchanted by the beauty of that archipelago, consisting of the highest concentration of islands in the Mediterranean. Kornati island - altogether 89 small and medium islands, spreading fifteen miles in length in direction north-west/south-east - can not leave you indifferent. The entrance form Mala or Vela Proversa leads immediately to a new dimension.
The surface of the blue sea, usually just rippled by the breeze, is in contrast with the ochre yellow of the labyrinth of the islands, covered with infinite dry stone walls. Kornat, the largest island, is the safe rear-guard to the other islands, aligned in two rows towards open sea (cliffs on west side): Levranka, Mana, Piskera, Lavsa - the larger, that look as to continue in direction south-east, crushing in smaller and smaller segments to reach the dimension of small reefs. ACI landing-place is in Piškera, in a bay closed between the large island and the islet Panitula. To stay overnight it is better to choose the cove of Vrulje, the main village in that zone, Kravljacica and Strižnja, the latter one with two good small restaurants (Darko and Quattro). In direction south there is the landing-place of Ravni Zakan, season entrance port to Croatia. The island of Žut, situated south of the entrances of Proversa and sheltered by the largest Kornati, is definitely a must. There (bay of Luka Žut) is one of the most impressive ACI Marinas in Dalmatia, with a curious pier parallel to the coast, in an idyllic landscape between sky blue water and very green coasts.
The Šibenik Archipelago
Leaving Kornati we reach, with a change of scenario, the Šibenik Archipelago: there islands are, if possible, even more indented. Small, green and almost all inhabited by small local communities, dedicated to fishing and, in the past, to corals, sponges (Zlarin), to the cultivation and harvest of caper (Kaprije) and to the defence of the coast (Žirje). If you have chosen the route along the continent, it is worthwhile to stop in the beautiful island of Murter, connected to the land by a swinging bridge in Tijesno. The ACI marina is in the bay of Jezera. Numberless are the possibilities of bathing in the relaxing bays, with the village of the Zlarin island where you can stay overnight, before reaching Šibenik, one of the most fascinating towns of the coast, unexpectedly skipped by many pleasure boaters.
If the sea breeze is prosperous, sailing slowly for three miles in the Sv. Ante channel, is really exciting. Entering, you leave the Sv. Nikola fortress on the right and on the left Punta Jadrija, to find yourself in the estuary of the Krka river. The view of Šibenik, with the marvellous cathedral of Sv. Jacob and the imposing fort of Sv. Ana, make the stage to the whole sea. The vessel can be moored to the pier underneath the cathedral, and you can visit the town before you start sailing upstream Krka for 11 miles to reach the other internal sea - Prokljansko jezero and the ACI marina in Skradin, basis for the visit to Krka river water falls (Krka National Park). You can easily sail upstream Krka even at night, thanks to an excellent signalling system. Leaving Šibenik, the route opens to the region of Split.
Split
One of the most beautiful town of the Adriatic, Diocletian's Split should be reached slowly, after a couple of stops in the splendid towns of Primošten (excellent the marinas Kremik and Rogoznica) and Trogir. There, the continental Dalmatian coast touches the Adriatic directly, making with Ploce cape a liquid watershed dividing northern- from mid-Dalmatia. Leaving on the right the islands of Drvenik Mali and Veli and on the left the long Ciovo, Split appears immediately imposing and proud. A town (200,000 inhabitants) of a long history and excellent sailors (numerous are sailing clubs with more than 2,300 berths) with a historical nucleus of vital and breath-taking beauty,
gathered around the majestic Diocletian's palace. You can easily visit the town, having left your craft in one of the three marinas, the closest to the centre of the town is the ACI marina, situated on the left of the old port. Navigation in the large port of Split is pleasant as far as the passage (10 miles away) between the island of Šolta and Brac, from where one of the many Dalmatian channels open, delimited in the south by the long island of Hvar, Šolta is solitary, Brac is imposing and fashionable, Hvar is young, amusing, cosmopolitan and marvellous with its hamlets (Hvar, Jelsa, Vrboska). In the south on the island of Brac, the beach of Zlatni Rat - "the mobile beach" close to the relaxing Bol, should not be missed, but visits are recommended only in Spring to avoid the crowd. From here you start another itinerary to reach finally the splendid Dubrovnik and the islands of the purest Dalmatia, rising south of Hvar in all their majesty.