Sailing in southern Dalmatia
After the double barrier Brac/Hvar, separating Split from the sea, the most authentic Dalmatia leaves the continental line with the far away islands of Vis, Busi, Svetac, Sušac, Lastovo. More isolated and splendid is the tiny Palagruža, practically in the middle of the Adriatic. Very long and arranged between west-north-west and east-south-east are Korcula of Venetian heritage and the very green Mljet. Pelješac a peninsula, however with definitely insular characteristics, spreads for 35 miles, giving a shelter from bora to sailors heading for Dubrovnik, is a place you must visit. Before Dubrovnik good opportunities for unforgettable stops are given by the enviable climate of the small Elafiti archipelago. Cavtat should not be missed, before the majestic sites of Boka Kotorska, but there we are already in Montenegro.
A sea of transition
Even the colours and sensations - felt both by the sight and smell - are different in respect of the intricate water ways between Zadar and Šibenik, or even more those of Kvarner, where the Mediterranean penetrates inland to lap peoples just touched by the sea during the centuries. A steep mountain chain (Dinaric Alps), interrupted only by Neretva river leading as far as Mostar, separates Bosnia from Croatia. That represents a real cultural watershed among continental Balkans and the peoples on the coast, real Dalmatians, heirs of autochthonous Illyrians. Everybody passed over those areas: Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Croats, Venetians, Turks, Austrians, Italians, Slavs.
However, going down to the south, there is something more. We discover still untouched places, lonely anchorages, scents that, bora and deforestation necessary to build S. Marco's galleys in the Venetian shipyard, have destroyed forever up in the north. Lunar landscapes of Kornati island, leave here the place to intricate forests reaching as far as the coast. A landscape still being western, at least for its winds and colours, remembers us of Central Europe (for architecture) and, finally, already smells of east, recalling to a pleasure boater's mind some spots of Ionic islands or of Turkish Licia. A sea of transition, therefore, almost a must for an east Adriatic that - the merchant richness of Dubrovnik, long rows of seamen who reinforced the fleets of Venice and later on those of Austro-Hungarian empire - made a protagonist over centuries of turbulent history. Hospitality for sailing tourist is good, never reaching the sense of understanding that can be found, for instance, in Greece or Spain, Croats are reserved and discrete, but never second to anybody for kindness. Do not expect mawkishness, but, even better, some long chat with an old Dalmatian sailor about the past and memories of many years spend at sea.
The island of Lastovo
The humidity of the Adriatic, will probably make impossible to see Lastovo farther than 6-7 miles away.
The first impression is positive, a happy island, judging from the mildness of the land configuration and from extended forests hemming the coast. The passage between the external islands is safe, with rapidly descending depths. The north entrance to Mali Lago is very beautiful, with the forests touching the deep blue water. Touching the coves of Krucika and Korita, you reach quickly the bay of Zaklopatica. That is a place kissed by gods. A simple islet, shorter than 200 metres, protects the rectangular cove from north winds, The result is spectacular: a natural swimming pool of clear water mirroring the green of the vegetation. Leaving Zaklopatica you reach the little port of Sv. Mihajlo, used by the dominating (but hidden) village of Lastovo, not clearly visible from the sea, but a pleasant surprise once moored. Leaving the craft, in 15 minutes you reach the uphill village of Lastovo. Really curious is the fact that the oldest part of the village can not be seen from the sea at all. The view is attracted by a very fertile and well cultivated internal hill, protected form winds and saltiness by the nearby heights. Going down you should not miss the small marina of Lucica, a candy box with a micro-port where local fishermen live and where it is possible to rent some rooms for days of absolute relax.
Going back to the vessel, you head for the small archipelago east of Lastovo. Lastovo reefs - Krucica, Cesvinica and Saplum - offer a couple of the best moorings in the zone. If mooring in 3 metres of sand and Posidonia between Cesvinica and the reef immediately west is beautiful, really superb is the one between Saplun and the reef dominating from the north. There is the unique, real sand of Lastovo, a delight in azure water stressed by the whitish reflections of the bottom. If you want to sail around Lastovo, you can head for Skrivena Kuka for the night, deep and safe cove west of Struga light. If you are attracted by the profile of the nearby islands that, probably, the afternoon breeze made visible, you can choose between the body of Korcula or the green profile of Mljet, the honey island.
The island of Mljet
A comfortable route at 90ยบ leads us to Mljet, marked by a series of reefs called Glavat, ending with the last and the largest, characterised by a strong port light.
The arrival to Mljet is preceded, with the wind blowing from east, by an intense smell of lavender and resin, abounding in forests covering completely this long and fascinating island. The first landing-place is the large Pomena bay. There are several restaurants and one hotel on the shore, where you can rent bicycles and make interesting excursions to the national Park, spreading on 32,000 km2, on the west side of Meleda, one third of the total surface of the island. From 1345 to 1808, owned by the Dubrovnik Republic, Mljet is a green oasis with two water surfaces inland. Those are the salt lakes Malo Jezero and Veliko Jezero, literally meaning small and big lake, that can be reached in 10 and 20 minute on foot from Pomena. The walk is very pleasant, with the first lake appearing unexpectedly. The scene is really unusual for one island. The pine forest, the quiet and the clear water, the communicating vessels connection between the two lakes, (the small and the low), connected by a narrow channel, the island in the island on Veliko Jezero where there is a Benedictine monastery from 12th century (transformed into a resort, easily visited by local boats), will not, for sure, make you miss your boat for half a day.
Polace bay
That bay - Polace bay - one of the most fascinating labyrinths of whole Dalmatia, will give you strong sensations. Polace has four entrances, separated from open sea by various islets. The most impressive is the second one.
The senses are immediately awakened, that great is the beauty facing you. Our advice is to turn off the engine and proceed by sail, in the little local breeze, and descend slowly in the entanglement of the various islands, among which the external Moracnik and the internal Tajnik give infinite possibilities sail-dippers among countless tacks and jibes. On the left, a long channel leads again to open sea. On the side there is a series of low reefs, well visible in the middle of the west reef, depths are remarkable, between 10 and 35 meters in the whole bay. The village of Polace is situated in the end, with the remains of an ancient Roman palace, with the buoys, the nearby restaurants (Ogigija, Calypso and Bourbon), ticket boxes for the park and some shops. Ogigija and Calypso remember that the Ulysses myth is the genesis of the Mediterranean culture. Mljet as well, like Gozo or Kerkyra, compete in the contest to conquer the birth of Calypso, the nymph who loved Ulysses. We do not know the truth, but only see that the most beautiful islands of the Mediterranean keep doing that.
From Korcula to Palagruža
Those who want to proceed towards Dubrovnik, can stop in the small Elafiti islands (literally meaning "deer islands"), with an excellent sub-tropical climate. Šipan (stop at Sudurat), Lopud and Kolocep are really inviting, with their quiet villages where you can find some supply.
In Dubrovnik, you moor at the ACI Marina along the river Ombla or at Gruž port (petrol stations in both marinas), the latter hosting the Harbour master's Office for customs questions. The visit to the old town deserves a long stay, to scroll among the memories of a long and proud story. The green island of Lokrum, less than a mile from the citadel, will complete the stay. Coming back, westwards, you can head for Korcula. Landing at Peljenski Kanal requires attention due to numerous islets. Before the Venetian citadel, you can see the famous bay of Luka, preceded by a large supply station. Follows the ACI Marina, immediately east of the old town. Superb architecture, orderly disposed on a small promontory dominated by two round towers and by the cathedral belfry. There are also other valuable things to see, Marco Polo's house and the colon dedicated in the 16th century to Antenor, a figure of the Trojan myth and founder of the town. The main centre of Korcula is Vela Luka, situated in the west of the island.
